Why this state has a slab leak problem and most of the country does not
Arizona homes are built slab-on-grade, overwhelmingly. Concrete poured directly on prepared ground, no basement, no crawlspace to speak of in most of the housing stock. It is the right way to build here and it works well. It also means that a large share of the pressurized water lines in the average Arizona house run through, under, or embedded in that concrete.
In a house with a basement, a failed supply line makes a puddle somewhere a person can walk to. Under a slab, the same failure has nowhere to present itself. The water goes into the ground under the concrete, or it tracks along the line until it finds an edge, or it heats a patch of floor from below. You get symptoms rather than evidence.
Add the local water. Arizona carries one of the heaviest mineral loads in the country, and hot mineral-rich water moving through copper under thermal stress is a combination that shortens the life of the pipe. Add caliche in the soil, which means the ground under the slab does not always behave like soft earth. The result is a failure mode that dominates conversation among plumbers in Phoenix and Tucson and barely registers in Minneapolis.
Locating is a distinct trade skill. It is not "look for the wet bit", and it is not something to guess at when the wrong guess costs a hole in your floor.
The six symptoms, in order of how much they actually tell you
1. A warm or hot area on the floor
The strongest single indicator there is, and effectively specific to the hot water line. Walk the house barefoot in the morning before the sun has been on the floor. A patch that is consistently warmer than the tile a foot away, in a place with no sunlight and no heated run beneath it, is a hot line losing water under the concrete.
2. A meter that moves with everything closed
Nearly as strong, and it covers both hot and cold. If the low-flow indicator turns while the house is shut down, water is leaving the system. It does not by itself prove the leak is under the slab, but combined with symptom one it very nearly does.
3. A usage jump you cannot explain
Useful as a trigger rather than a diagnosis. Arizona bills climb in summer for legitimate reasons, so a July increase means less than a February one. What matters is a jump with no change in occupancy, irrigation or season.
4. The sound of running water in a quiet house
Late at night, with the air conditioning cycled off, put an ear near the floor in different rooms. A faint continuous hiss or rush with no fixture running is real evidence. This is the same physical signal the acoustic equipment amplifies, just at the limit of human hearing.
5. Cracks appearing or shifting, or a floor that has moved
Slower, later and more serious. Prolonged saturation changes the ground the slab bears on. New cracking in tile grout, a door that has started to bind, or a hairline crack in drywall that keeps growing all belong on the list.
6. Damp or a smell at the base of walls, or unexplained damp outside
Water tracking along the line until it finds an edge shows up as damp baseboard, lifting flooring at a threshold, a musty smell in a closet on an exterior wall, or a persistently damp patch on a patio or driveway with no sprinkler near it.
Three at once
Warm floor, moving meter, unexplained bill. Any two of those together justify a locate. All three together and it is very likely a slab leak on the hot side.
The meter test you can run yourself in ten minutes
This is worth doing before you call, because it turns "something feels wrong" into a measurement.
Shut down every water use in the house. Taps, showers, toilets left alone, dishwasher, washing machine. Then the ones people forget: the ice maker, the irrigation controller (set it to off, not just between cycles), the pool auto-fill, an evaporative cooler if you run one, a water softener mid-regeneration, and a reverse osmosis unit that may be filling its tank.
Open the meter box at the street. Look before you put a hand in it, scorpions and spiders shelter in these boxes in this state. Find the low-flow indicator, which is a small triangle, star or freely spinning dial designed to register tiny flows. Watch it for two minutes.
If it is turning, note the meter reading, wait fifteen minutes without using any water, and read it again. The difference is your leak rate, and it is genuinely useful information for the plumber. If it does not move at all, your problem is on the drain side, or intermittent, or not a leak, and that is worth knowing too.
Why it is nearly always the hot line
Hot water is chemically more aggressive than cold. It also expands the pipe. A copper line under a slab is constrained, it cannot move freely as it heats and cools, so instead it works against whatever surrounds it: concrete, sand bedding, caliche, a sleeve that has degraded. Decades of that cycling abrades the wall of the pipe from the outside while hot mineral-heavy water works on it from the inside.
The failure is usually a pinhole rather than a split, which is why the symptoms are subtle and why the leak can run for a long time before anyone notices. It is also why a warm floor is such a giveaway: the escaping water is hot, and concrete conducts heat well enough to bring that to the surface.
Cold-side slab leaks happen too, and they are harder. No thermal signature, no warm floor, and often no sound if the pressure loss is small. Those are found by isolation and by meter behavior rather than by walking around barefoot.